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The wider fix

Damp proofing a Hobart home

The whole job is rarely one product. It is usually water management outside plus a barrier inside.

A worker in a hi-vis vest and dust mask hacking salt-damaged plaster off the lower wall of an old stone and brick room, with a wheelbarrow of rubble on drop sheets.
Illustration: salt-damaged plaster comes off the lower wall back to the masonry. It is replaced only after the cause has been dealt with.

Damp proofing describes everything done to stop a wall taking up ground moisture, not one specific product. On an older Hobart house a full job can take in digging back the ground, the barrier itself and replastering. Rising Damp Hobart runs it as one job, with one specialist responsible from start to finish, and the written quote lists each part.

What the work usually includes

Correcting external levels

Cutting soil, paving or garden beds back below the internal floor. Often the cheapest change, and an easy one to skip because it is not glamorous.

Drainage

An agricultural drain or a properly falling surface so water leaves rather than sits. On Hobart's sloping blocks this matters more than the barrier does.

A damp proof course

Injected or, rarely, physically inserted, where the wall genuinely has none or the original has failed.

Salt-resistant replastering

Removing contaminated plaster and replacing it with a render designed to hold salt back from the finished surface.

Repointing in lime

On sandstone and older brick. Lime mortar lets the wall breathe; cement pointing traps moisture inside the stone and accelerates the decay it was supposed to prevent.

Ventilation where it applies

Subfloor vents on suspended floors, and improved airflow in rooms where condensation is doing part of the damage.

Order matters

Water management comes before barriers, and barriers come before finishes. Replastering a wall that is still taking up moisture wastes the plaster; installing a course under a path that bridges it wastes the course. A sequence that looks slower is normally the one that costs less overall, and any assessment that recommends a finish before establishing where the water is entering should be questioned.

A garden bed and a concrete path built up hard against the brick wall of an old cottage.
Illustration: Ground built up against the wall bridges any damp course there is. This is the cheapest fault to find and often the cheapest to fix.

What to expect afterwards

Slow, undramatic improvement. Masonry that has been wet for decades releases moisture over months, and salt continues to migrate out of the wall while it does. A finished-looking wall two weeks after treatment usually means somebody sealed it, which traps the moisture and pushes the damage further up the wall instead of removing it.

Suburbs we cover

We cover Hobart and the surrounding suburbs, from the Georgian cottages of Battery Point to the post-war brick of Glenorchy and Moonah.

Book an on-site assessment

We come out, meter the walls, look at the ground levels and tell you what is causing it. You get that in writing before we quote any repair. The visit is $450 plus GST.